Discovering New Zealand
Travelling Round New Zealand Sightseeing and Exploring
Picton
Morning run. Wellington’s grown on me as you familiarise with running route. You
begin to set down your roots. Greet some people more than once. You get to know
your way round and recognise places. Whizzing tourists get no connections and substitute
with adrenaline pumping pursuits.
Business lunches, commercial meetings, working breakfasts, mobiles and networking
disturb rhythm in bustling café society. Yesterday exhausted by travel lag and draining
of constant new environment.
Ferry to Picton is over three hours. Shared egg on toast outside station forecourt
with complimentary biscuits. Friendly enthused chef serves one of the highlights
of the day.
Train station built in 1937 with roman columns and art deco influence. Shuttle service
from station to ferry terminal. The Arahura path to the setting sun, is loaded with
trains, articulates, camper vans, cars, coaches and foot soldiers. Now your holiday
starts on the sea. As we surge towards the Cook Straits tourists don’t look cool.
Who would wear a Union Jack t-shirt? Spotted blue penguins in the harbour scavenging
under the water.
Golden Age sailors for two comes to $106. Wellington a wrap around harbour sheltered
from Cook Straits. Uncluttered by water activity with close-ups of snow capped mountains
we merge into the open sea.
Ferry crossing a visual sensation. Wellington night life is legendary. A far cry
from time when pubs open only for one hour after work - the “six o’clock swill”.
Cultural hangovers persist.
Marlborough region accounts for over half of New Zealand wine production. Oz Clark
promises Sauvignon Blanc is best in the world. Marlborough wine trail reveals secluded
bays and caves hidden round the water.
Wellington to Picton is 93k. Club class an extra $20 with “no kids allowed, you
can guarantee a nice crossing”. In World War 1. thirteen thousand New Zealanders
lost their lives. In the Army museum at Waiouru they have the “exciting innovation
of simulated mustard gas”. Grandad Mason was disabled by the mustard.
An exciting adventure and outdoor wonderland. A mountain to sea ecosystem. This
is New Zealand. This is middle earth. Tolkien’s images in the wild beauty of the
landscape. Walking in the footsteps of Frodo and Sam. Lush green, velvets and majestic
mounts. Your guide could be an Orc.
As came into Sounds it’s just like traversing the fiords to Bergen, but no houses.
Camera, clicks and observations on crowded viewing deck. Ate our sandwiches on deck.
Freedom guitar played in native Peruvian woollen hat, strummed a song. Pumped up
in liquor. It’s a kind of entertainment.
Queen Charlotte beckons, we can capture on digital. Gay catering server unable to
comprehend my accent, seemed obsessed with accurate description of bread roll.
Picton a picturesque welcoming transit for Abel Tasman and Queen Charlotte treks.
Stunning views on show. Helpful advice centre on harbour side. Directed to Marineland
Guest House, B and B for $105, double en-suite, continental breakfast, internet,
Sky facilities and cooling outdoor swimming. It’s the doctor’s house.
Not yet been mosquito bitten, hay fever not evident. Will it all return on our Sound
bush tramp?
Seabreeze café serves wonderful scenery and lamb shanks spoilt by heavy sauce. Nouveau
cooking not appreciated by the taste. Blue cod enjoyed by Carolyn.
Kaiteriteri
Hired a car and drove three hours to Little Kaiteriteri on the edge of Abel Tasman.
Motoring through alpine country. Sheer drops camouflaged by bush vegetation.
Kaiteriteri a lovely place. Delightful composition of soft white sand, green sea,
blue sky, sweeping bays and coves, and rocky outcrops. Pine drenched mountains and
fluctuating lagoons backdrop for a beached Mediterranean holiday. Not too commercial
just useful facilities like customised water taxis shuttling to Abel Tasman track.
Impressive Torlesse Coastal Motel @ $160 double per night. Stayed in for home-made
feta, onion and tomato omelette and fresh salad with yeasty local Turkish bread,
finished off with Manuka, fruit and yogurt. A tasty treat.
Driving experience is foreign and familiar. Coming into Nelson exposes long stretches
of sand in estuary. “It’s just like Morecambe Bay”. Rain and snow forecast for The
Alps region.
Pat arranged our car. Her daughter’s been in Birmingham for seven years. She loves
it: how do they do that? Brian makes coffee and bakes his own fruit berry muffins.
He likes England and going to Yorkshire next year.
Tropical but dull rain with pockets of brightness to entice. Tomorrow is longest
day when weather settles into summer. Today the departing revenge from remnants
of spring. Telephone call to John who is home for Christmas. Spend all day reading
and planning.
Maoris and Pakeha insulated from each other. Europeans did not draw from cultural
reserves of Maori life. They just wanted land. Maoris not eligible for public funds.
In 1888 the first Maori played rugby.
By afternoon sun comes out revealing that summer has started. Little Kaiteriteri,
and Big Kaiteriteri vie with each other as “playground for the nation”. Travellers
pay for one and get the other free. Discovered two more deserted coves round headland.
Sat on rocks eating sandwiches and rest of isotonics. Sea enjoyed playfully rolling
in lapping our feet and competing for the biggest wave. This is the Mediterranean,
an idyllic spot. A passing Tui deposits with exemplary accuracy. The sea has joy
and tragedy in its memory genes, bare chested we serenade the sea and delicately
dip our feet. Tourists invade our space but soon depart unable to fathom how to
behave in such ideal. Hurriedly rescued our gear from the clasping sea.
The rocky promontory sustains the spirits and refuge. Gods still linger in forest
and ocean. At the summit there’s on evocative Maori tribute to ancestors who left
their footprints here. I have left mine. A Pa and spiritual hideaway masquerading
as a look-out. On the beach bared torsos reddening, too thirsty for the sun.
Searched out running track around lagoon. Bush is dark and threatening full of things
that rustle, dart and bite. Relieved to get out the other side unmolested.
Rain encourages early journey back to Picton. Bleeping warning light leads to consultation
with native boat engineers. Decided to give car a go and see what happens. Road
deserted outside centres of population. Interesting stopover café with hot teas
and succulent fruit muffins. It’s all home made in New Zealand. They enjoy their
cafes.
Carolyn’s broken toe entails rethink of walking Queen Charlotte track and our weeks
sojourn on Marlborough Sound. Discussed with water taxi entrepreneur and baggage
handlers. Agreed a taxi to each resort along the track. Strapped up Carolyn so can
manage short strolls rather than 10 -15km each day between our hotels.
Checked emails and replied with updates. They’ve got a turkey back home. Will be
our first Christmas away from family.
Excellent food, well cooked and not swimming in postmodern sauce at The Barn in
Picton. Staying in Harbour View Motel at $135 in spacious studio with breathtaking
views over marina and fiords.